A Weekend in Lisbon

Portugal has been on my to-visit list for a while, and what better time to go than to catch some winter sun that was still about in southern Europe. This blog covers what I did in Lisbon whilst travelling with my cousin, and also (importantly!) picks out a few of my top vegan places to eat in the city.

This trip was also combined with a 5 day visit to Porto, a city 3 hours drive away from Lisbon to the north - more on that can be found in my previous blog.

The map below shows all the spots I hit during my travels including: accommodation, food, attractions, airport etc. This will give you a good idea of where everything is location in relation to one another.

Transport to/in Lisbon

Lisbon is easy to navigate, either via public transport or on foot. Lisbon airport also has regular flights to most European destinations, often at decent prices. What I liked about the public transport was that you could pay for it using contactless - although a cheaper option is to get a daily ticket if you're going to be using it a lot.

• Taxi/Uber - Like Porto, Ubers in Lisbon are relatively well priced to use. That being said, the public transport was so good that I didn't end up taking a taxi to go anywhere.
• Metro - By far the easiest way to move around the city centre is on the metro. Lisbon has 4 lines which are conveniently colour coded, making it a simple version of the London tube map.
• Bus - If you're travelling from greater Lisbon or suburbs, the buses often connect smaller regions to a metro or train station.
• Tram - Lisbon's original transport network was tram based, and you can still ride the number 28 tram (the original tram route) today. More on that later. Newer tram routes have also been implemented. The best way to figure out what to use is to check on Google maps for the optimal route.
• On foot - Like Porto, the majority of Lisbon can be explored on foot. It is again a city filled with hills, so there is a lot of walking uphill/downhill. When it rains, the pavements often become quite slippery so shoes with good grip are recommended.

Things to do in Porto

Lisbon Walking Tour

The Lisbon Walking Tour took 3 hours and was very extensive, covering all the main points in Lisbon as well as specific viewpoints of the city. Some facts I remember include:

• Lisbon's transition from a dictatorship to democracy was done peacefully, with 'red roses rather than guns'.
• Until 1974, 30% of Portugal could not read or write.
• Portugal only relatively recently opened up to the global economy. You only have to go back as soon as 2005 to find it in a naïve state.
• Some of the popular areas in Lisbon include:
  • Barrio Alto - the party place in Lisbon.
  • Baxia - the more bougee and upmarket area.
  • Alfama - the oldest quarter of the city.
• In the 16th century, Lisbon had a magnitude 8.1 earthquake, which ended up destroying a lot of the city.

Sunset at Miadouro da Graca

Miradouro da Graca gives sweeping views over the city as well as being a great spot to catch the sunset. It can get quite busy up there so I would advise you to come at least 30mins before sunset is scheduled to get a good viewing spot.

No. 28 Tram

On august 14, 1890, the first cable car went into Lisbon. Since then, the city has had the addition of cars and buses, yet the popularity of the tram has made a resurgence with tourists thanks to Tram 28. Famous as it takes you through the historical neighbourhoods of Graca, Alfama, Baxia and Estrela, we decided to give it a go.

Starting at Martim Moniz, we took a shuttle bus that took us to the start of the 28E route. It was a bit confusing at first (as there is also a route 28), so if unsure just ask the driver where you should wait for the tram. To pay, we had decided to get a day travel pass, which also covers Tram 28. The ride itself was a cool experience. Winding through the narrow streets of Lisbon, the tram with it's wooden interior made it's way up and down hills and around suburbs. Getting on early (at 0730) definitely was advantageous, as the tram was not busy at all and we managed to get a seat. The tram route terminated at Baxia, from which point we started making our way to Belém. More on that below.

Belém

Belém is a laid-back, quiet region closer to the mouth of the Tagus River, heading west from Lisbon. It is known for a few things (seafood, restaurants and decorated houses), however most famously resides there the Tower of Belém, a Monastery, and the original patisseries for the Pastel de Natas. You can get the 15E tram from near Baxia which takes you straight here.

Belém Tower was built between 1514 and 1520. Originally built to defend the city, it transformed over the years into a lighthouse and customs centre. The tower also had the purpose of welcoming ships into the city, and to flex the might of the Portuguese empire during it's colonial period. Visitors to Belém do have the option to get a paid ticket to go in the tower, however we decided to admire it from the outside.

Close by to the tower also lies the Jerónimos Monastery, one of the most visited sites in Lisbon. It is a huge building that runs parallel to the river, and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983. Queues for the Monastery can easily stretch down the street, so if you're looking to visit come before it opens to avoid waiting ages. Interestingly, the history of the Monastery and Pastel de Natas have more in common than I thought. The original recipe for the Pastel de Belém came from the monks, who had spare egg yolk left over after using the whites to dye their clothes. From this, combining it with some flour and sugar, was born the Pastel de Belém, and what is now everywhere else referred to as the Pastel de Nata. The bakery, Pastel de Belém, exists a short walk from the Monastery, where they still follow the ancient recipe from the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. Unfortunately, no vegan options, but still a cool piece of history!

LX Factory

Previously home to Lisbon's textile industry, LX Factory has now been transformed into a hub for food, drink, independent retailers and art. Giving off similar vibes to Camden Town back home in London, I'd describe it as quite a hip area with lots going on. We had a wander through the stalls of various vendors, and also grabbed some lunch there. LX Factory is roughly halfway between Belém and Lisbon's city centre, so made for a convenient pit stop on our way back from Belém.

Other things to do

I didn't end up going to these, but was recommended:

• Sao Jorge Castle & Cathedral
• Lisbon Cathedral
• Monsanto Park
• Jardim Botanico de Lisboa

Plant-based in Lisbon

Veganapati

Diwali was being celebrated whilst I was in Lisbon, so it was only right for me to go and get some Indian food! Veganapati serves up Indian as well as other international cuisines, and is completely vegetarian/vegan. I'd also say it was very reasonably priced. There is lots to choose from, and over the course of the weekend I actually ended up visiting twice. I tried the uttapam, medu vada and tacos, all of which were delish. Highly recommended spot, that has a laid back atmosphere and friendly staff.

Vegan Nata Chiado

If you're looking for some vegan Pastel de Natas, this is your spot. Specialising in only this, Vegan Nata Chiado make a lovely pastry that they also sell in large boxes (of 6 or 12), should you be looking to take some home for family/friends. Located in Baxia, it is easy to get to and find. The first time I went I got there when it opened, afraid they would completely sell out - turns out they keep making more during the day so that wasn't an issue.

Kong - Food Made with Compassion

Portuguese cuisine is typically meat and fish heavy, so finding out that Kong did vegan versions of traditional Portuguese dishes was a hit. I tried the Bitoque - a seitan steak with special mustard sauce, accompanied with fries and rice. A combination that I wouldn't think worked, but it did. The interior of the restaurant is nicely designed, and being situated on the first floor means you get a nice view of the street below.

Vegan Buffet

It's in the name, all you can eat vegan buffet for €12.50! They had a good range of salads, curries, noodles and desserts on offer, with friendly staff. I also tried a 'Guarana' soft drink - made from a plant native to the Amazon rainforest.

Therapist LX Factory

If you're looking for brunch, Therapist in LX Factory has a range to offer, from curries to French toast. I tried the Pad Thai, which was more like a Thai green curry, but still tasted good. It's not a fully vegan spot, but there's enough options to keep you happy.

Comoba

Our final food stop before heading to the airport to come home was Comoba, a brunch place near Timeout Market Lisbon. Whilst we didn't eat at Timeout Lisbon, we did have a wander through it and it seemed like there was loads going on - I even spotted a few vegan options! Keep it in mind if you're looking for a buzzing and vibrant place to come in the evenings.

Comoba did a really good breakfast burrito with tempeh, with the tomato and chilli sauce elevating the dish. It was super filling (just as well as my flight home got delayed by 1.5 hours!), but I would say on the more pricey side.

And with that wraps up my Portuguese travels. Lisbon was a lovely city to spend time in over a weekend - I feel that was enough time to see all the main sights of the city, with the added bonus of going to Belém. We got really lucky with the weather, it was sunny over the weekend and only rained on travel days - if it was otherwise I think we would have done a lot less, as most the sightseeing is done outside. Like Porto, I enjoyed the spell of warm weather in November, and would recommend Lisbon to anyone who is looking for a short getaway.

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